Chosen Solution
I have opened this iPad and tried swapping out the LED for a new one from eBay, but the same issue occurs where the machine powers up, digitizer works with voiceover mode on, but there is no display whatsoever shown. I tried all the usual methods of reset, reboot, hard reset, recovery mode, but there is something wrong with the LED output. Im assuming this is a circuitry issue, but don’t know how to discern that from looking at the internals. Can anyone tell if this is an issue that some soldering would fix? In other words, do you guys see a visual issue with the board? I don’t have anything unplugged in these pictures to expose the pins, would that be necessary to tell if there is an issue? Thank you!!! Rick
Update (12/12/2022) @flannelist here some pictures I took.
I see some “scuffs” where the arrow points and the components that have the 2 red dots, but am unsure what these are. Does anything stand out? If the resolution is crap, I will post some high res stuff assuming the forum allows. I appreciate the attempt to identify my issue, but more importantly the info given to help me learn what I’m looking at and how to troubleshoot!!! Thank you Apple wanted to replace it for $250 for same model, but since this one just crapped out, there was no way I was doing that. Update (12/12/2022) Posting a couple more clearer pics. I have a multimeter and am going to look into how to test the diodes. I assume I’ll start with the LED pins and see what I can report back with. Presumably if this is a diode or board issue, this would still require advanced skills to actually fix, but ideally I could get a shop to fix it for cheap since I might identify the exact issue for them.
Do you see an image if you shine a flashlight at the display? Backlight circuitry failure is a common issue, especially if previous repair had been attempted with iPads. On these newer models this is often a bad diode (blown filters are more likely to be a touch issue) but could be any number of issues. If no image at all there’s still hope. Post some pictures of the board without the digitizer and display disconnected. I would also peel off the sticker here in case a fried component is really obvious. If you have a multimeter (you’ll probably want some fine point leads if you don’t have any) you can use diode mode to test the pins in the connector against known good values.
I wasn’t able to discern anything clear to determine the cause of this issue. I see a few components that look suspicious compared to others, but I don’t have the skills to figure it out exactly. I’m going to try to bring it to a shop and see what they may be able to figure out. I’ll report back here if I ever get clarity on what was causing my issue to possible help others
