Chosen Solution
TV Was used in my office for the past 2 years, and has not had any issues. Last week we did a generator test which cut the power gracefully, however it failed to cut back over, meaning there was no power surge. Once we got power back on the TV Was dead-ish. I plugged a roku into it, the backlight works as though there’s an image and the sound works, but no display. I replaced the Power board and the Main board, and this didn’t work. (I got them certified from shopjimmy.com) This TV does not have a dedicated Tcon, it’s built into the main board. I attempted to only use the left T-con cable and only the right T-con cable. I also removed the ribbon cables that are daisy chaining the panel driver on the bottom and it made no difference.
Update (02/28/2022) I forgot to mention I tried clearing any charge in the board. Unplugged for 24 hours , held the power button in for 90 seconds 3 times in a row, while unplugged. Just tried re seating all the ribbons no luck. Power appears to be good. No OSD in any configuration. With the TV being ran off 2 separate drivers, is it possible for one short to brick the whole panel?
at least I’m assuming that’s what the long pcbs at the bottom here are. They are mirrord as well.
You seem technically inclined, but I will throw a few things out. Even tech heads miss simple stuff… Unplug it for 1 minute, check it again. unplug for 1 minute and hold power button (hard reset). check it again. unplug your signal cables, and see if you can at least get the menu up. sometimes a half plugged in or shorted cable can do weird stuff. connect it to the internet. these nosy machines are wired to snitch on everything you do, and may not work right until they can. check the power at the socket and the jack on the unit. we have ALL done it, so just make sure. try another input there could be a damaged jack or debris in the socket of an input. the power drop may have fries the panel…. If you get audio with the original power board, I would doubt its bad. Check the batteries in the remote, and make sure no buttons are stuck. could make weird things happen. All I can think of right now guy . Let us know how its going. edit: did you also have audio BEFORE ANY boards were changed? I ask because after looking at the pics I recall how pain in the butt those wire to board connectors can be. If you did not have audio before the board was replaced, you may have repaired the problem but an improperly installed ribbon cable may be your ‘new’ problem.
To answer your question first, the short answer is I dont know if separate drivers one bad would give no signal to the whole panel, but my feeling is that since the screens are essentially divided (in some capacity) in all these type of panels that with one working driver you would get some sort of image, artifacts, color, or something. The fact that there is no image at all says something in and of itself. At this point I can only give you more general guidance.In repair work when an expected repair fails to fix the problem, one must determine if, at any point in the repair, something happened that caused a secondary problem, and if so what that might be. If not, then the original problem persists. In this case it appears your original problem is the same. If you dont have a bad connection somewhere your panel is likely bad IMHO. I would try the ‘wiggle’ test. using a mirror opposite you panel so you can see it and the unit on, try moving the wire and cables and see if you are able to get anything visible. check connections between boards. I wonder if a taped ground has come loose during disassembly, still it wouldnt explain the original problem. I would be remiss if I didnt remind you to use saftey protocols while working around high voltage. Be careful please.
