Chosen Solution
Right, I am using the quite old display manufactured from 2011. If you want to say buying a dell monitor, please ignore this request. This symptom happened a while ago and I really tried to figure out why, but I couldn’t find out. Btw, thanks a lot someone who created this forum! I got a lot of knowledge. So, the problem happens just after few minutes later. When I unplugged it and connected it again, it sometimes fixed. However, it never continue more than 30 minutes. I already tried to connect display from another thunderbolt from back panel instead of all-in-one cable. It works but never continued neither. I replaced the All-in-one cable and there was no change. I replaced the power supply unit with my another apple cinema display(not Thunderbolt display), but it didn’t work. I found out the PSU is the same with the Cinema display. The things that I can try from now is
- replacing logic board
- AC Power Inlet. Can anyone succeed to fix 27” Apple Thunderbolt Display ever? I reached out to local repair shop, but they asked me around $400 for fix. Please help me!! I don’t have money for buying $5-6000 monitor!!!!
This is almost always a capacitor issue on the power supply board or controller board - doesn’t matter which monitor you have. It can be repaired, but you probably need to replace all of the capacitors in the monitor. The LED monitors have fewer failure points then the CCFL monitors they have since replaced, so it’s generally a capacitor issue on these if you have ruled every other practical possibility out as not being the issue. You will need to do a teardown of the monitor to fix this issue. Refer to this guide to remove the power supply and controller boards for recapping. Practice on a junk board first if you have never soldered before, since a mistake with a soldering iron can (and usually does) mean the end of the damaged board. Update 6/12/19 Here is the controller board:
The capacitors on the controller board are going to be SMD as there are no through hole points that indicate that they’re through hole. You will need to use a hot air gun to get these off, as a soldering iron tends to not work very well. I do not have the values, but you can get them off of the capacitors or a reference board.
